I flew into Kirkwall ahead of the storm - which was to wreak so much havoc across Ireland and the central belt of Scotland. It was in the dawn hours of Monday morning the week before that I'd heard the long-term farming forecast, early on the radio that morning, warning that a storm was on its way - and I'd decided there and then to change my flight from Edinburgh to Kirkwall from Saturday morning to Thursday. A wise decision as it happens. A few re-jigged meetings (thank you everyone who was patient/understanding) and I was on my way. I arrived in to Kirkwall that afternoon, floating over a completely flat calm sea.
We were lucky with traffic and managed to catch a ferry back that got us home before dark. What a difference to walk around the gardens where Charlie has been working like crazy, with the dogs, as dusk fell. The house glowed as we looked back up.
The Friday morning was still calm, the sea beautiful and blue on our walk in between my phone calls.
But Saturday was wild, and stormy. The waves were ferocious, exhilarating.
Back at home in the kitchen I was amazed with this beautiful jug that Gloria from Sussex Lustreware had made for us as a house warming present.
Incredible. As you may remember we did a brilliant pop-up with wonderful Gloria a year or two ago and then sold a lot of her wonderful jugs and cups this Christmas in the shop. We don't have anything in store at the moment but watch this space, I hope, for further collaborations. I hasten to add, Gloria makes the jugs - she didn't find it in an antique shop, as one or two people had mistakenly assumed when I posted that photo on instagram - which would have been too good to be true.
Despite Storm Éorwyn's havoc, the day was bright and beautiful for much of the time.
We went down to the sea that night. 
And then it was Burns Night. I didn't manage to take a single photo we were having so much fun, but it was a brilliant night and we rolled home at I don't know when, two in the morning.
Lazy morning the next day.
But beautiful sunshine nonetheless.
The snowdrops in the woods are astonishingly beautiful.
Paint colour craziness. As I may have said last time round in the blog, we have a LONG time before we need to make a decision on colours and it will take time - we need to see how the house feels in all seasons. We're trying one or two other paint ranges next. I will keep you posted on where we settle in the end.
Amazing colours of the sea at the moment, I can't explain it.
On our walk that afternoon, suddenly an amazing rainbow cloud...
Which just as instantly as it had arrived, faded to nothing as the light changed.
Astonishing light these days.
Home has never felt better. Of course we need to do a massive task of re-wiring, re-plumbing, re-roofing the house and replacing windows, fixing flues and lots of repairs - but that's all to come. For now we are very happily settled while plans fall into place. There's literally nothing better than living somewhere for a year before you renovate, if you can make that happen. It's such a nice way for ideas to gently settle.
Different light swept through, silvery-grey.
We've had amazing, clear, starry nights too.
Pink sky one evening. Charlie has done amazing clearing in the old walled vegetable garden. The old stone wall was completely invisible and overgrown - revealed once more, and the old structure of paths and flower beds is showing too.
One morning last week was amazingly still - the sea almost mirror-flat. All you hear about in Orkney is the storms and winds, but there are as many days at this time of year (maybe we are just lucky in our first winter?) which have been absolutely calm.
Looking across to Evie, on Mainland Orkney.
Slanting late January sunshine. Gosh we are noticing the days lengthening now, from the intense short days of a month ago.
This is our usual daily walk - up the hill and we just walk for as long as we have time for, or the dogs can cope with, over to Quandale which is around the corner of the island from us. It's amazing how different it is every day. Different tides, different wind, light, air.
The straight road with a view all the way to the island of Westray.
A crescent moon on Friday.
We had our neighbours Tom and Branwen round for supper. Half way through the evening they had to go back to help one of their cows give birth. So we all went, and then all came back to Westness and carried on into the small hours. A happy and beautiful interlude.
VERY tired the next day.
And then our friend Sue came for lunch, bearing many gifts including this brilliant (famous) donut cake from Argo's bakeries. Such a good present!
We explored the garden including my new obsession which is designing a tiny replacement for the tree house that is rotting away which Charlie discovered upon clearing this corner of the garden. Watch this space! Getting our priorities well and truly in the right order!
And admiring Charlie's rare snowdrop collection, lovingly transported from the Parsonage and now thriving in the snowdrop woodland.
And then, and then. It was time to go. We went over to mainland this afternoon and I caught the little plane down to Edinburgh, and Orkney was gleaming in the golden sun as we took off.
Here's the Muckle Skerry lighthouse, almost on the way to mainland Scotland.
And now I'm back down in London, after the easiest journey ever. Orkney, Rousay, Westness - it all feels a long way away. And will feel further when I am off to America next weekend, for some work and for some book talks that I'm giving in Seattle, Newport Beach and Los Angeles. It will be a little while before I am home now. But time will fly and spring will be here soon.
60 comments
What a wonderful post. I revel in this new life in Orkney.
Charlie and you are so wise to wait a year before making changes. There is no substitute for seeing one’s way through a year of seasons. And the quality of light that far north can’t really be explained.
This is a small thing, but I’m delighted to see that Henry has made the move, and be seen casually hanging out with the corgis/
When will you be in Seattle ,would love to say hello.
Thanks Ben for such beautiful photos. I love the stone walls and the photo of the dogs sleeping are charming. It will be a fascinating journey watching as you restore such a remarkable house and garden.
I wish you success in the United States. You will enjoy the Athenaeum Library in Boston, one of my old haunts.
What a wonderful blog! Is the little cottage by your house your as well? It looks so cosy.
Ben we are so very excited to welcome you to Newport Beach! Having you come to speak at the Decorative Arts Society has been a dream of mine for many years. Reading this weeks post is enchanting, and reminds me of the incredible journey you will make to arrive on the west coast of the US. What an honor it will be to hear you speak. Safe travels~ Marion P
Ben, I listened to your chat with Dennis Scully on the BOH podcast, and it was delightful! I believe this was the first time I’ve heard your voice. Of course I had to get out my copy of An English Vision and look at the photo that seemed to shock Dennis so. Really, a tempest in a teapot! I noticed it previously because I always try to see the titles of books in interior photos, but it’s such a neat, discreet packet that it left no impression. I agree with you, it just further demonstrates the comfortable ambience that the family enjoys. The book is wonderful, by the way!!
Wonderful photographs and fascinating to see how you have settled into your new home and environment. Wise to wait a year before embarking on major renovations and modifications. Will be following with interest.
What a treasure to read your post after moving from the parsonage. All new adventures and equally amazing. This journey will be one to watch the transformation. Charlie is a workhorse and has accomplished so much already. Gratitude abounds. Thanks for sharing, Ben. As always, it is good for the soul. All the best to you and Charlie. Deborah
There is spring at the end of the rainbow!🌈
Thankyou for your news and travel…especially the most beautiful pictures-somewhere I will probably not visit so looking forward to seeing more …thankyou…enjoy USA..❤️🙏🏻
Love these blogs, so full of colour, excitement and promise. I wonder what is to become of the bothys now you have so much to do in Orkney and such gorgeous Scottish landscape and sea there?
Intriguing blog thank you for sharing.
Ruth x
I am thrilled to follow your progress in the Orkneys as someone who lived in Aberdeenshire for many years and am now exiled to south west France. The light is phenomenal and constantly changes so please take your time in choosing paint colours for your house. I look forward to the journey !
A wonderful project. Can you wait a year before you decide?
Looking forward to the next installment.
Thank you sincerely for transporting me and sharing the beauty, peace and happiness of your life. Bravo to you two for making the commitment to making your dreams come true!
Thank you for the wonderful photos, love them.
I’m very curious and envious of your winter weather. I live on the North shore of Lake Ontario and my garden is completely under snow. To see green fields and snowdrops this time of year is quite surprising to me since I think you are much farther N than the 49th parallel.
I look forward to more tales of your adventure. Thank you, Margaret
You have to know how lovely and soothing your posts are for us crazy Americans at the moment. You are going to be surprised when you get here. Thank you for sharing your
corgis ( I have one) and snowdrops, the farming , the peace…blessings of Candlemas.
Thanks again for sharing. Taking care of a house (of course with dogs and a cat, a piano and a garden!) upholds you and keeps you alive. All the best to the both luckiest boys!
Thank you very much for this blog and all the marvelous photos. This island is so wild and the landscapes so beautiful ! I agree with you about taking the time to live in a House before initiating works. And also observing the garden throughout the seasons.
Kind regards.
Sabine
Wonderful pictures, beautiful and soothing home-always enjoy your blog and posts.
A great friend and myself have a wager – either bottom right or second from bottom to win for exterior colour!!!
I always look forward to your photos and text of your new life up North. And the weather is so mild… at times!
Oh, there are some great surf peaks ‘peaking’ there on the windless days. Must come up your way to explore surf potential.
Love hearing about Westness House and seeing all the amazing photos of the garden and surrounds. Those views are exquisite , I think you should try watercolours to capture the light on the landscape. I look forward to the next installment. Happy travels .
June Armstrong
I do enjoy reading about your new adventure in your new home and what you and your husband plan going forward. Thank you for sharing your island life.
Your posts are so enjoyable, so beautiful and so thought provoking. I’m from Australia- it’s very hot at the moment so scenes of Orkney are so calming. I have only been to Orkney once, but now feel a need to return.❤️
Oh this is all just so fabulous . Thank you for sharing your wonderful photos.
We visited Orkney a couple of years ago, and it was the most perfect of places.
Your house and garden are amazing, and your views so beautiful.
It really is ‘home’ for you both, a home for the soul.
What a wonderfully refreshing thing you two are doing. Graham and I took on a neglected house more than 50 years ago standing in around 2 acres of rubbish, today it is loved and cossetted by a garden and parkland plus an extra 100 acres. It all takes time but, is so thrilling. I wish you both the very best of times on your journey. Regards to you both and thank you for the blog. Alan Gray.
It looks fantastic Ben and Charlie,we would be interested to know what type of trees you have, as they seem to grow very well.
Angela & Clive.
It’s all so beautiful!! Gentle compared to our summer of bushfires and record breaking rain in the tropics …. Can you imagine 2 metres of rain in the space of 4 days!! People in North Queensland were seriously planning an ark!!
I’m pleased you dodged the bullet with your storm you seem to live in a shadow … I’d love to walk, listen to the sea and enjoy the snowdrops.
The jug is pretty amazing what a lovely memory in the making.
Thank you for it all. I love it!!! 💐
The scenery is exquisite. All of the sunsets and rainbows and the sea calm and then twirling. So nice that you are getting settled slowly and see what you eventually want for colours in your home. Charlie’s snowdrops are just gorgeous. That gift of the jug was beautiful and the saying on the back. And that donut was something else too. Fun that you had your neighbours and then the birth of the calf, as an interruption of your evening get together. Loved seeing the dogs and the cat all having a nap. Sounds like you are enjoying friends and Burn’s night and love to see the progress of your home and garden. I love that treehouse, how whimsical if you can restore it. Enjoy your time in the States. Wishing you both a Happy Valentine’s Day, as it is coming up very soon.
That pitcher is such a treasure!
How lovely to witness a calf birth! And designing a treehouse—that’s exciting, can’t wait to see what imaginative solution you come up with.
Does seeing the snowdrops make you nostalgic for Dorset? They are so lovely in the photos, I could almost smell the moist loam. Also very nice to see more of Henry. Seems he was a little ghost back in Dorset.
And the stars!! Were you able to see the planetary alignment? We were supposed to have a good view down here in eastern USA, but alas in Pittsburgh it’s almost always overcast this time of year. I think rainbows follow you around, Ben.
Safe travels and enjoy your time in USA (before the Madman bans all foreigners from our shores.)
Wonderful. I have what feels like twenty questions today! What type of camera do you use to take your glorious photos? Does Charlie mind sharing what variety are the amazing snow drops with the yellow at the base of the bloom? I have never seen anything like them. And last but not least, I noted on instagram that you were going to be in Nashville! Fingers crossed that this is something that one can purchase tickets too!
As everyone else has said before me, we love to see your new home and how much you are enjoying it. I do love the wildness of it, the beauty and the sheer emptiness of it all. Travel well…Jennie, NZ
A breathtaking gift. Thank you.
What a wonderful start to the week. Thank you for taking the time to share.
Your comments about taking time to consider renovations are so true. I learned the error of my ways in my previous home. Now after 24 years in this house, I can attest to one error in the kitchen which I corrected, and one change of colour scheme. Everything else has been considered over long periods of time. Your photos are stunning, you have an amazing eye for composition, love these posts.
Absolutely love these posts – everything looks so beautiful. Love the pets snuggling up!
Thank you, thank you. Your mention of Quandale sent me down a delightful rabbit hole – A Biography of a Landscape. Photos always stunning and a new blog always so cheering.
Dear Ben,
I was thinking of your latest blog while grocery shopping for Chile ingredients.
I realized you and Charlie have a deep appreciation for beauty. I see it in Charlie’s kindness to your dogs, the beautiful flowers he grows, his love expressed in his cooking.
I see such beauty in the interiors you create, the buildings you build, the people you both collect.
You both appreciate the natural beauty this earth has given to us. The gorgeous sunsets from your new home, the rainbows and ocean are so clean and wild. Even the cold, snow, and windy days have their place in time.
How lucky you both are to know yourselves and to take a leap of faith to a new place.
I know it will be hard work ahead but much happiness to you both.
Pam
Such a treat each time you post one of your blogs. Thank you so much for bringing us along. I’m curious to see those trees leafing out. The snowdrops are glorious. Safe travels.
Magical—-the starkness, the raw colors of the landscape, the twisted ancient trees and snowdrops on the barren ground.
Magical—-the starkness, the raw colors of the landscape, the twisted ancient trees and snowdrops on the barren ground.
Another great read. Looking forward to seeing the garden in a few months.
This is wonderful! Thank you! Having spent a lot of my childhood in Scotland, I look forward to it and enjoy it so much.
Dreamy. Heavens, Charlie has been busy.🌿
Love the diary! Super excited to see you in Charleston, SC in March!!! DT
Heaven!
Always wonderful to see this wild land that is now your home! The house seems cozy, even before all the renovation work that will make it tighter and less drafty. What an adventure! Safe travels to the very now crazy and broken US. Your talk will bring some light! Cheers, Alicia
It is so lovely to see the house in Spring and all the snowdrops starting to appear. What a delightful place to live.
Oh how my wife Terri and I look forward to these postings… Generally, we get to read them in the morning hours over coffee in our farmhouse in Connecticut. The patient step-by-step improvements to the house and land we follow eagerly and with delight.
Truly loving your remarkable move to Island life. Travel is a joy and can only makes life more joyful. I moved to the Highlands 5yrs ago from Cartmel. Equally beautiful but very different. Looking forward to following Charlie’s exciting ideas for your land. Harriet
Stunning photos, thank you for sharing Ben. I love the painterly one of the lichen covered orchard trees, with the snow drop carpet.
Ben,
Thank you for the wonderful photos. Is there human/animal medical care on Rousay?
Best,
John Brown
I know mine will most likely not be a popular opinion, but I sincerely hope you don’t paint the exterior of that incredible home in a bright colour (as the swatches show now). It looks so good now, dark and moody melting into the landscape not sticking out like a garish carbuncle. Now I do know you taste is better than mine, and I may be proved wrong….but do think long on this one Ben! Wonderful blog, stunning snaps as usual. Oh, and am SO GLAD you have made cards of some of the photos you have done and are selling them in your shop!!
Another wonderful blog, Ben. Such stunning photos. One thing I am curious about – how does the electric power reach your house? I can see some wind turbines on some of your photos, but no pylons – surely you don’t have underground cables do you? Sorry about my ignorance!
Thank you for sharing, safe travels
Another series of beautiful images Ben – what a wonderful retreat for you and Charlie. Robert always said live in a house for a year if you can without any changes and it will tell you what it needs.
So beautiful! A treat to look at again and again! Looking forward to the next one Ben Keep them coming, it’s a salve to the soul in busy times x